If you are planning a surf trip to Portugal, two names come up again and again: Ericeira and Peniche. Both sit on the same stretch of Atlantic coast north of Lisbon, both have world-class waves, and both are about an hour's drive from each other. So which one should you pick?
We live and surf in Ericeira, so we are not neutral. But we also drive to Peniche ourselves when the conditions call for it, and we would rather you choose the right place than the wrong one. Here is an honest comparison.
The honest truth is that many surfers do both: base themselves in one place and do a day trip to the other when the swell or the wind is better there.
Ericeira is best known for its reef and point breaks. In 2011 the coast around the town was named a World Surfing Reserve by Save The Waves Coalition, the first in Europe. The reserve protects a short stretch of coastline with an exceptional concentration of quality waves: Coxos, Ribeira d'Ilhas, Pedra Branca, Reef, Crazy Left, Cave and São Lourenço, among others. Ribeira d'Ilhas, a long and consistent right-hander, has hosted international professional contests for years.
Most of these breaks have a rock or reef bottom and work best for intermediate and advanced surfers. But Ericeira is not only for experts: to the south of town, beach breaks such as Foz do Lizandro and São Julião offer a sandy bottom and gentle waves for lessons. In winter, when the open coast gets too big, the harbour beach in town is often the most sheltered option.
Peniche is almost an island. The town sits on a peninsula that sticks out into the Atlantic, so its beaches face in different directions. When the wind or swell is wrong on one side, there is often a clean wave on the other side. That is Peniche's big advantage: it is very consistent, which is why so many surf camps are based there.
Its most famous wave is Supertubos, a fast and powerful beach break known for its barrels. It hosts the MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal, a stop on the World Surf League Championship Tour, held in October in recent years. On the north side, the beaches around Baleal are popular with surf schools and beginners.
In short: Ericeira has more variety of quality reef and point waves in a small area. Peniche has more beach breaks facing different directions, so it is easier to find something surfable on a difficult day.
Complete beginners will be fine in either place. What matters more is that your surf school chooses the right beach for each day's conditions. In Ericeira, Foz do Lizandro and São Julião are the classic learning beaches. In Peniche, it's usually the Baleal area.
Advanced beginners and intermediates are where the choice gets interesting. Peniche's beach breaks give you lots of waves to practise on. Ericeira gives you the chance to step up to mellow reef breaks on the right days, which is a big jump in wave quality. If you want to progress from beach breaks to point and reef waves, Ericeira is the better classroom.
Experienced surfers will love both, but for different reasons. Ericeira offers more than 15 surf spots in roughly 8 km of coastline, with Coxos as the highlight. Peniche offers Supertubos and a peninsula that keeps working when the reefs are too big or messy.
Ericeira is a former fishing village built on top of the cliffs, with whitewashed houses with blue trim, narrow streets, small squares and many seafood restaurants. It has a relaxed, local feel and is a pleasant place to walk around in the evening. It is also close to some of the best day trips in Portugal: the Palace of Mafra is a few minutes inland, and Sintra is a short drive away.
Peniche is a working fishing town and port. It is less picturesque than Ericeira but very lively in the surf season, with a large number of surf camps and hostels around Baleal and the town. From Peniche you can take a boat to the Berlengas islands, a nature reserve that UNESCO recognised as a Biosphere Reserve in 2011 and a great day out on a flat day. The medieval walled town of Óbidos is also close.
In short: Ericeira feels more like a charming small town; Peniche feels more like a surf hub.
Both are easy to reach from Lisbon Airport, but Ericeira is closer. Ericeira is roughly 50 km from Lisbon, while Peniche is around twice that distance. That difference matters if you arrive on an evening flight, or if you want to combine your surf trip with a few days in Lisbon or Sintra.
Whichever you choose, renting a car gives you the most freedom. With a car you can drive from Ericeira to Peniche (or the other way) in about an hour, and surf the best spot of the day.
Both places get busy in summer, and some of the best-known breaks can be crowded on good days. In Ericeira, the famous reef breaks attract many skilled local surfers, so respect the line-up and start on the shoulder. In Peniche, the beach breaks are wider, but the number of surf schools means the beginner beaches can be packed in July and August.
The best way to avoid crowds in either place is the same: travel outside July and August, surf early in the morning, and ask locals which spots suit the day's conditions.
The surf seasons are similar because they share the same coast. Summer brings smaller, gentler waves that suit beginners. Autumn often brings the cleanest conditions with lighter winds. Winter brings the biggest swells, which is great for experienced surfers but often too much for everyone else. Spring is in between, with fewer people in the water. The water stays cool all year in both places, so you will need a wetsuit even in summer.
If you want variety, quality waves to progress on, a beautiful town and the shortest journey from Lisbon, Ericeira is hard to beat. If you want the most consistent beach breaks and a big surf-camp scene, Peniche is a great choice. And if you have a car, you don't really need to choose: stay in one and surf both.
At Ericeira Surf House we are within walking distance of Foz do Lizandro, Praia do Sul and Ericeira centre, and we are happy to point you to the right beach for your level every day. Have a look at our surf spot guide, our tips for the perfect surf trip to Ericeira, or check availability for your dates.